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[boldav49]

Here is a short video detailing how I repaired a small crack in the opening of a Meiki Chika toy. Obviously it wasn't a real issue, but I decided to use it as an example of how I would handle a more serious repair. Incidentally, I used a Hakko 936 soldering station set to it's lowest temperature of about 390 F to do this fix. I believe the low temperature helps to insure that the elastomer is melted without being boiled off. I've noticed that when I used higher temperatures more elastomer was lost; lots of noxious fumes were produced; and defects like air bubbles were introduced into the repair. Consequently, if you can get your hands on a soldering iron that can be set to a lower temperature than normal, you most likely will be happier with your repairs.

I usually start off by liquifying the elastomer on each side of the crack to fill in the void. Then I leave the thicker round part of the soldering iron tip at the bottom of what used to be the crack for a few seconds to make sure that everything is melted all together. Just to be clear, I don't use the sharp end or flat corners of the tip for this process because it might slice down into the toy. Lastly, it's been my experience that cracks tend to propogate over time so it makes sense to fix them as soon as possible.

https://vimeo.com/56780581

[HardGay]

Awesome video Boldav.. this will help many members on here who's wondering how to fix those tears... easy breezy~

[DaaaBears]

Nice video!!!

That's awesome, I don't have a soldering iron but the way it fixes that tear, I think I might have to get one. What soldering iron do you recommend??

[Captainawesome]

AWESOME!!!!!! Thanks for finally making one of these vids I always wondered how yah did it! 

Dave's Meiki Repair shop opening up!

[ToyDemon]

boldav49, your video is awesome. Would it be ok for us to post on the ToyDemon Blog so that more people can learn about how to repair their meikis?

[boldav49]

Thanks for the positive comments. This was my first attempt at filming a repair so I'm sure I could do a better job next time with brighter lighting and some closer shots. However with this short movie clip, I was just trying to put something together quickly to show people how to do a basic repair. If and when I get another crack I'll put a clearer video together. As for my feelings on whether I feel that a split that develops over time is a defect, my simple answer is no. I thinks it's simply the nature of the  elastomer used in that brand of toy. However, I do believe there is some room for improvement in the development of durable materials that mimic the softness and feel of the human body.

[boldav49]

Okay, below are some pictures of what I thought was a necessary repair to some larger internal cracks to my Korean Meiki Virgin. I have to admit it's kind of weird how some elastomers seem to develop cracks more easily then others.  In this case the problems began inside, and I had to be careful not to damage the entrance in the process of fixing them.  To succeed at this repair, I carefully inserted my soldering iron and then slowly smoothed out the "v" of the crack in the manner shown in my video. One interested thing I've noticed is that once a repair is done, it tends to last a very long time.

[boldav49]

Well I spoke too soon on another post that my Clone Meiki Hoshino didn't have any cracks, and I noticed a few issues developing at the opening after many months of use. After thinking about this problem some more, I'm inclined to believe that bigger cracks tend to form where there are tiny cuts or deeply "v"ed areas to begin with. Probably the reason I'm seeing more cracks at the entrances is that this is an area that experiences a lot of friction yet has less lubrication overall due to gravity and plenty of downward thrusting. Making the problem worse is the fact that many times the entrances to my toys are a little rough even when new, which I imagine is caused when excess material is crudely trimmed away from the orifice during the manufacturing process. So in the end, any little cracks that are there beforehand have the potential to grow into bigger ones over time. Now the really good news is that these rough entrances or cracks are fast and easy to correct with a soldering iron set to it's lowest setting; and I've noticed that when done properly, they last a long time. 

Disclaimer: Using a soldering iron on your Meiki could potentially ruin the toy rendering it useless for your purposes.  Therefore, I recommended practicing these types of repairs beforehand on broken elastomer toys using proper eye protection, good ventilation and plenty of common sense.     

[HardGay]

yet another great fix example...man.. You're a pro at this.

[boldav49]

Thanks, but the repairs are not hard to do with the right soldering iron, and I have yet to retire any of my expensive toys due to cracks. However, it's still sad to see other people get disheartened when their favorite masturbator starts cracking, and it gets to the point where the toy is no longer satisfying. Personally, I think if you have nice toys it's worth doing a little work on them periodically to keep them in tip top shape. 

[Captainawesome]

Thanks, but the repairs are not hard to do with the right soldering iron, and I have yet to retire any of my expensive toys due to cracks. However, it's still sad to see other people get disheartened when their favorite masturbator starts cracking, and it gets to the point where the toy is no longer satisfying. Personally, I think if you have nice toys it's worth doing a little work on them periodically to keep them in tip top shape.

 Now I know why my poor attempts always ended in disaster. I had a cheap radio shack soldering iron that only knows one temp "Insanely Hot". Soon as I touched the Meiki it would melt and boil. What kind of solder do you use?

[boldav49]

I use an old Hakko 936 set to it's lowest temperature of 392F, but I do believe it's been replaced by the $80 FX888. I think if I was going to only repair Meiki's; though, I might look at less expensive alternatives like the $45 Yahua 936 or even the $19 Velleman VTSS5 Temperature-Controlled Soldering Station which I've noticed on Ebay. Though I haven't personally tried these two soldering stations, I would imagine that they would be more than adequate to do the task.

[Captainawesome]

I use an old Hakko 936 set to it's lowest temperature of 392F, but I do believe it's been replaced by the $80 FX888. I think if I was going to only repair Meiki's; though, I might look at less expensive alternatives like the $45 Yahua 936 or even the $19 Velleman VTSS5 Temperature-Controlled Soldering Station which I've noticed on Ebay. Though I haven't personally tried these two soldering stations, I would imagine that they would be more than adequate to do the task.

Do your Meiki's ever split as badly again after you fix them with your method?

[boldav49]

Nope. If anything it stops them from splitting in the same spot in the future. I'm really convinced that many cracks happen because there is a tiny split that starts the whole process. This split may be there in the beginning or it may develop over time in a zone where the elastomer is thin or where it has sharp creases. However once the cracks begins it has a tendency to grow worse.  Fortunately, I've noticed if I catch these problems early, I can usually smooth down the defect with my soldering iron and it prevents it from getting any worse.

[Siu]

The thing is most TPR will only melt at 350ºF + (176.667ºC). Though i haven't attempted to fix / repair a toy with a soldering iron before i have remelted some TPR toys and you do not want to go over it's melting point otherwise, you get a fist full of smoke. Overcooked and you'll be left with a rather mildly scented burning smell of plastic >.>