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[critic]

After my second A10 Cyclone broke, I decided to open it up and figure out why. It turns out, the A10 Cyclone is DESIGNED to wear within less than a year's worth of regular use. In this message, I intend to explain to you the life-span of you A10 Cyclone, the Mechanical causes for it's shortened life-span, and the ways you can extend it's life.

#1. Planned Obsalescence is a business strategy whereby products are engineered to break within a specific period of time...long enough that the customer does not feel it is a piece of junk and will be willing to buy it again, and short enough to ensure the customer replaces it. The A10 cyclone is DESIGNED to break with regular use (4-6 times per week).

#2. After examining the product, I have determined that the motor, wiring, stability and basic design is sound, however, there is a DESIGNED flaw in the gears. There are 8 gears, 7 steel and 1 PLASTIC. The plastic gear will be the first thing to die. You will notice a slippage within the first 4-6 months of use and may think it is the insert cup coming out of place (which happens from time to time). Likely, however, it is not...it is the plastic gear begining to strip. The more your product slips, the faster the gear will strip. Eventually, your gear will either wear down completely and begin slipping alot, or the teeth will break all at once and you will hear the motor running at full speed, but the cup with stop turning. This is the plastic gear wearing out.


#3. Although the product is designed to last 6 months to one 1 year, it is possible to extend the life beyond that. One of the first things that will help is not using the torque options on the R1 controller. The more the insert cup spins back and forth, the greater wear on the gear. Try to run it in a single motion spin. This sucks because the best settings are the torqued settings. Another way you can extend the life is by running it for shorter periods of time. Because there are metal parts that create friction and heat, this heat can melt your plastic gear's teeth and cause you to loose the bite you need to keep it running. Do not run it for longer than 30 minutes at a time...or...if you notice the handle is getting hot to the touch, try to give it a rest and cool it off for a while before starting it up again, this will ensure that the plastic gear's pliability decreases and it becomes more rigid and less likely to wear.

So that's my best  advice.

[mikeah]

This has been my experience also.  But to Toy Demons credit, they did replace the broken handle unit and seemed to actually take my engineering advice. I had already ordered a replacement that I'll keep in the box.  The heads (if washed and maintained) should never wear out.  But it's cheaper than the average date where odds are you aren't getting laid anyway so I'm willing to pay for another one in 6 months.  For me, it's a 100% winner every time.

For a particular type of user, it's an amazing bit of technology. I would pay twice the price for a more robust (tougher, more reliable) unit.  As it is, it's the only thing I'll buy anymore because on me it works great. 

Modifications included moving the wire bushing inside the handle to eliminate stress on the wire.  I would LOVE to be able to buy just the transmission unit inside the handle rather than the whole Cyclone for self repairs. That, as you stated is the only weakness in the otherwise very well built device. I'm told that the plastic gear was for noise reduction.     

I do recommend it, but also recommend that you take care of it. I use rechargeable C cells and I do recommend this.

[mikeah]

I contacted RENDS directly about getting replacement motors for the A-10 Cyclone as I am now unwilling to buy a new one every few months. They basically blew me off which is silly as they could have sold it to me for $50 and I would not have batted an eye. Now I know better. Since I have several to play with, I decided to find a suitable replacement and post that information for those folks that are handy. It ain't rocket science.

The original motor is made in China and is a Suntech Development Company Ltd Model #360G-1 with a working voltage of 6V Speed of 100 RPM unloaded and a stall torque of 10.3kgf.cm.  In laymens terms, it's a pretty common motor and gear system. I could get them for a buck or 2 a piece if I wanted to by in quantities of 10 thousand or more. To see how close to this I can get in this country I sent one of the broken motor assemblies to a Electronic parts store. I'll report what they say.

3 C Cells equals 4.5 volts. Most hobby motors work in the 3-6 volt range. The only tricky part is the gear assembly which seems to be about a 100:1 ratio for reduction. These motors are sold by Science Supply shops and hobby stores that cater to the robot builder - which includes Car and Boat models. The closest that I've found (and they are pretty close) run about $15 and come in 100:1  300:1 and 400:1. ratio's  As the ratio increases the torque is higher and the speed goes down. At this price the gearing is metal and  the motor a bit smaller. Conversion is easy, I drill two new holes and screw it in. I'll put the motors in a 1 inch sleeve and size will be perfect.

I've ordered 2 of each motor and since I have 2 broken units give them a try.  I'll report the results after I try it out. I won't solder, instead I will use standard crimped connectors.

The other improvement I suggested was to have the wire path through the side rather then the top of the handle and I'll be adding some foam for noise and I'm still thinking about cooling.  Then I can work on ways to hold it in position hands free. .

My next thing is to put it on a transformer and go from a wall outlet to a steady 4.5 volt C Cell replacement.

What honked me off is that they told me that they could not sell me a motor for safety reasons. 3 C cells doesn't provide that much juice.  The Canadian motors seem to run cooler, just as much torque and real metal gears. So, maybe we do have an alternative. ( http://www.solarbotics.com/products/gm20/ ) 

If not, just use the parts and PVC piping.

And it looks like they are considering a stand alone A10 version 2.

[Paste]

I contacted RENDS directly about getting replacement motors for the A-10 Cyclone as I am now unwilling to buy a new one every few months. They basically blew me off which is silly as they could have sold it to me for $50 and I would not have batted an eye. Now I know better. Since I have several to play with, I decided to find a suitable replacement and post that information for those folks that are handy. It ain't rocket science.

The original motor is made in China and is a Suntech Development Company Ltd Model #360G-1 with a working voltage of 6V Speed of 100 RPM unloaded and a stall torque of 10.3kgf.cm.  In laymens terms, it's a pretty common motor and gear system. I could get them for a buck or 2 a piece if I wanted to by in quantities of 10 thousand or more. To see how close to this I can get in this country I sent one of the broken motor assemblies to a Electronic parts store. I'll report what they say.

3 C Cells equals 4.5 volts. Most hobby motors work in the 3-6 volt range. The only tricky part is the gear assembly which seems to be about a 100:1 ratio for reduction. These motors are sold by Science Supply shops and hobby stores that cater to the robot builder - which includes Car and Boat models. The closest that I've found (and they are pretty close) run about $15 and come in 100:1  300:1 and 400:1. ratio's  As the ratio increases the torque is higher and the speed goes down. At this price the gearing is metal and  the motor a bit smaller. Conversion is easy, I drill two new holes and screw it in. I'll put the motors in a 1 inch sleeve and size will be perfect.

I've ordered 2 of each motor and since I have 2 broken units give them a try.  I'll report the results after I try it out. I won't solder, instead I will use standard crimped connectors.

The other improvement I suggested was to have the wire path through the side rather then the top of the handle and I'll be adding some foam for noise and I'm still thinking about cooling.  Then I can work on ways to hold it in position hands free. .

My next thing is to put it on a transformer and go from a wall outlet to a steady 4.5 volt C Cell replacement.

What honked me off is that they told me that they could not sell me a motor for safety reasons. 3 C cells doesn't provide that much juice.  The Canadian motors seem to run cooler, just as much torque and real metal gears. So, maybe we do have an alternative. ( http://www.solarbotics.com/products/gm20/ ) 

If not, just use the parts and PVC piping.

And it looks like they are considering a stand alone A10 version 2.

That's great info, thanks very much!  I don't have an A-10 yet but am planning to get one when the piston attachment comes out.  My major concern about the A-10 was the gear failure problem that so many people had reported, I'm relieved to know I can get replacement parts if necesary.

[Kissmyass]

I too despise planned obsolescence.

[mikeah]

I have a horde of motors on the way.  The latest test subject is made in America has the exact dimensions and seems to do exactly what I want.  I also ordered a AC-DC 5V converter.

A more exact replacement might be : DC Motor: High Torque Mini 12V DC Gear Motor, 50 rpm for Hobby Projects   MT-050
or DC Motor: High Torque Mini 12V DC Gear Motor, 200 rpm for Hobby Projects   MT-200 (in case I don't get the torque on the first one at 5V) from http://www.batteryspace.com/dcmotorhightorquemini12vdcgearmotor200rpmforhobbyprojects.aspx

Note that all of these all metal gear replacements run less than $15.  Rends could have sold the actual cheaper Suntech motor for $25 and made money. God, I do love capitalism.

[HardGay]

I have a horde of motors on the way.  The latest test subject is made in America has the exact dimensions and seems to do exactly what I want.  I also ordered a AC-DC 5V converter.

A more exact replacement might be : DC Motor: High Torque Mini 12V DC Gear Motor, 50 rpm for Hobby Projects   MT-050
or DC Motor: High Torque Mini 12V DC Gear Motor, 200 rpm for Hobby Projects   MT-200 (in case I don't get the torque on the first one at 5V) from http://www.batteryspace.com/dcmotorhightorquemini12vdcgearmotor200rpmforhobbyprojects.aspx

Note that all of these all metal gear replacements run less than $15.  Rends could have sold the actual cheaper Suntech motor for $25 and made money. God, I do love capitalism.

Definitely let us knwo how it turns out.. an unbreakable A10 would be awesome!!! 

[mikeah]

The first set of motors arrived and I'll need to "do some adapting to make these work. While the torque is the same and rotation nearly identical with the R1 and three batteries, they are physically smaller (still, all metal gears, sealed gearbox and motor) but I need an adapter plate (to correct the size and I need to lengthen and widen the axle. I'll do that this weekend.  The motors are dead silent.  I mean DEAD silent!  The difference quality makes. About $14, they were made for precision control of robotics.

The other set of motors is scheduled for delivery on the 11th. I have very high hopes for these as they are physically identical in size to the Suntech. Technically they are 12v, but geared as they are it should not be a problem.  I also have a AC-DC 5 volt adapter on the way.   

This weekend I'll find the stuff I need (metric screws, thin steel, brass or aluminum plate). 

[mikeah]

I just finished assembling my improved and repaired RENDS A10 Cyclone, trashing the SUNTECH motor. It's pretty much an absolute direct replacement, exact form factor and I'm gonna yank the motor out of my one working A-10 as soon as I get the motors in both broken ones.

I originally guessed wrong on the gear ratio, so I have a few slower motors that aren't useful. The replacements are

http://www.batteryspace.com/dcmotorhightorquemini12vdcgearmotor600rpmforhobbyproject.aspx

DC Motor: High Torque Mini 12V DC Gear Motor, 600 rpm for Hobby Project  With 12V, it has more torque, but it works just fine 5V (3 C CELLS) IT IS SILENT -- DEAD SILENT.  This is a quality component that you MIGHT pick up at an RC Hobby store. It's American made and designed for RC Cars, boats and airplanes. And did I mention that it is DEAD SILENT.

I tested with the 200 RPM motor and it works fine, put the 600 will be better. Just ordered 3 motors. At $12 a piece, why not? Since we are running at a lower voltage you will never actually see 600 RPM.

Before you panic that the screws are different - these require M3-.5 screws - I point out that these are the screws used on floppy drives and CDROMs  and are the 2nd most common screws on PC's

[Spagett!]

Got my R1/Cyclone combo Saturday and its awesome! Nothing better than kicking back while the job gets done. I got the motor Mikeah mentioned today, and tried it with a couple fingers in Medusa(lubed). This motor seems kinda weak, because I would have to put it at full power so my two fingers can glide through Medusa. Otherwise it just stops. It's VERY quiet though. I'm wondering if I installed it wrong(hoping).

@Mikeah, did you use the original gear assembly on just the new motor itself? I just swapped out the whole original motor with the new one. It works, but I think the gear assembly from the original gives it the torque it needs.

As I was curious about the original motor, I unscrewed the 3 long screws and the whole motor fell apart into pieces! I didn't even get a chance to see how all the gears were to be arranged. Lots of trial and error got that sucker back to working order, except I have 1 plate extra! Right now, I'm gonna stick with the original until the gears fall off, but I'm sure I can get the new motor working somehow.

[HardGay]

man, i wish i had the technical know-how to these motor/gear stuff, it would be pretty fun and interesting modding these motor toys. I remember the days when i had one of those tiny battery powered motor racers where you can exchange the motor out...

[mikeah]

Don't be impressed yet.  I've got one apart now and I find the design interesting.  It seems that much of the electronics for the A10 is in the battery case.  The programming seems to be in small eproms on the circuit board below the batteries. I want to go to either 12 volt or a full 6 volts for better torque.  I also want to find a better motor/gear head. Experimentation demonstrates that torque more than anything drives pleasure.  Maximizing the torque at a moderate speed is the golden banana. ICARE Sailplanes may have the gearhead and motor combo I want.

One possibility is to ditch the R1 all together and just use a "motorbee"  board ( http://www.pc-control.co.uk/motorbee_info.htm )  to control the motor directly through a PC USB cable. It would allow any motor up to 24 volts (I would use a 12 volt power supply, 12 volt motor).  Now, use your imagination and see the possibilities.  The Motorbee comes with a control program for windows and allows running programs from the PC.  Why does this matter?  The use of the PC interface makes possible the engineering of Teledildonics - YES that is a real word.
( http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Teledildonics ) Essentially remotely controlled sex via the internet or network. A motorbee can control 2 reversible motors independently (independent UFO's?) 

Teledildonics never took off because none of the "pleasure units" ever was designed correctly for it.  Along comes the A-10 which except for the awful gearhead on an otherwise useful motor is designed perfectly for the science. The UFO and other female devices are adaptable for this also.

Now imagine that a woman on one end and a man on the other, each with a Rends device or multiple Rends devices (on the female end) each controlling each others pleasure a world away.  The Rends devices are the missing link to making TELEDILDONICS a viable science.  Soldiers serving a world away, lovers in different countries, virtual whore houses, legal because there is no skin to skin contact. 

What amazes me is that 1) No one at RENDS can see this.  They cling to the technology like it's a mere sex toy. They are Japanese, and yet demonstrate none of the innovation or 2) drive for quality that made Japanese cars, electronics, and technology #1.   Imagine that a modified A-10 can be used in a virtual internet house of pleasure with the addition of a few additional components, a sensor or two and  maybe a camera. Vision to think beyond the box.

Scientists (in Japan) are already building "female" robots with the dimensions of runway models. (Yes, they say that they are service robots, but service robots don't need boobs) The RENDS technology is usable there.  Scientists are even discussing the ethics of man machine marriages.  If you don't believe this you have never seen a man around a Ford Mustang.

And what RENDS can do to to earn a better reputation until they can replace the gearhead is make motor or gearhead replacements available.  Quality more than anything is what wins new customers.  It's why I own a Honda. They can learn from other Japanese companies.